For his final collection at Diesel, Glenn Martens turns the catwalk into an electric club where denim, desire, chaos and freedom come together for one last unforgettable night.

At Diesel, the party has always come first. For his final collection at the helm of the house, Glenn Martens turns that spirit into a final declaration of intent: an electric, sensual and uninhibited night where desire takes centre stage and everyone is invited to let go. “Disruptive, sexy, fluid, fun,” the designer says, offering what feels like one last invitation to join the party.
The setting is a club created especially for the occasion. Among the audience, 200 performers from the Marseille-based collective (LA)HORDE blur the boundary between performance and reality. Their appearances are sometimes unsettling, sometimes sensual, emerging without warning and steadily building the tension. It all culminates in a finale soundtracked by a reinterpretation of Donna Summer’s Love to Love You Baby.
That restless energy runs through the collection itself. Garments merge, overlap and come apart: a leather jacket is layered over a blazer and knitwear; trousers and skirts sit low on the hips; dresses and jerseys are reduced to fragments of fabric. Orchids appear throughout, worked into cut-outs, embroidery and knits to create a recurring sensual signature.
Trompe-l’œil further plays with perception. Lightweight shirts become winter coats, while jersey is transformed into tiny denim shorts. Nothing is quite what it seems, and the collection constantly shifts between the familiar and the unexpected.

Then there is denim, Diesel’s enduring foundation. Coated, laser-cut, topstitched and deliberately distressed, it appears in bootcut jeans, straight-leg trousers and microscopic shorts. Some looks seem to have been thrown together in the aftermath of a wild night out: twisted sheer dresses, crumpled tailoring and T-shirts reworked into headbands or dresses. Here, imperfection is not something to hide. Chaos becomes part of the aesthetic.
The accessories continue the celebration. The D-ONE bag arrives in a range of textures and finishes, while the new LOCK-D plays with Diesel’s signature Double D motif. Charms take the form of everyday objects, with a sock transformed into a pouch and a newspaper into a clutch. On the feet, buckles, Double Ds and Western-inspired details reinforce the house’s denim codes down to the smallest elements.
Lingerie also makes its Diesel debut, structured with boning and embroidered with orchids. The same flower appears in the jewellery and connects with Only Desire, the brand’s new fragrance. Desire, skin, denim and excess all converge around one central idea: unfiltered sensuality.
The final look brings everything full circle. Ella Snyder steps onto the catwalk in a pair of denim micro-shorts, echoing the very first Diesel collection Martens designed for the house. First look, last look, the same energy.
After several years of joyful chaos, Glenn Martens leaves Diesel much as he arrived: turning fashion into a party, and the party into an attitude towards life.

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Glenn Martens’ Final Diesel Collection Celebrates Denim, Desire and Freedom

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